How to choose your watch

The world of watchmaking is so vast that no one can blame you for getting lost in it. From the different types of mechanisms, to the shape of dials, to the material of bracelets and pure aesthetics, there are many criteria involved in the difficult quest for the perfect watch. Here are a few tips to guide you through this great and beautiful treasure hunt.

The operation of a mechanical watch is ensured by the parts that make it up, each of their movements being strictly linked to those of the others. At the heart of this "natural" mechanism, a hundred or so small elements work together, the main ones being the spring, the gear train, the escapement, the balance wheel, the winding stem and the rotor.

The wheels and balance wheel of a mechanical watch contain numerous jewels. They serve to limit friction within the movement of a mechanical watch, and therefore rubies ensure its smooth running and reliability over time. Ruby is chosen to be at the heart of the mechanism of these watches because it is the strongest and hardest stone after diamond. The rubies used in these watches are, however, synthetic rubies: they have the same properties as rubies, but they are man-made. It's not because a mechanical watch has many rubies that it will necessarily be more expensive. On the contrary, the more rubies your mechanical watch movement has, the more complex and reliable it is.

The first watches to embrace the wrist, they appeal to watch enthusiasts not only for their history, but also for the aesthetics of their increasingly visible gears through the dials. On the plus side, in addition to the prestige of tradition and craftsmanship, these watches have a long service life if properly maintained, and do not require batteries but can be wound. However, maintenance is more delicate than that of a quartz watch, as the latter is linked to the operation of the multiple parts that make up the mechanism.

If you've chosen a mechanical watch, there's a second choice to make: automatic or manual?

A mechanical watch must be wound in order to function: the spring that drives the movement must be re-tensioned. There are two ways of doing this:

Manual winding: the crown of the watch must be turned about thirty turns every day.
Automatic winding: mechanical watches are called automatic when the movement of the wrist is used to wind the mainspring. The oscillating weight moves thanks to the movement of the wearer. Its rotation turns the wheels and tensions the spring.

3 things to know about automatic mechanical watches :

An automatic watch stops after a few days if it is not worn, or not sufficiently in motion. So if you have several watches and alternate between them, it is possible that the automatic movement of your watch will stop when you take it back. In this case, you need to wind your automatic watch manually, and once a week if you wear it every day.
The automatic winding system imposes an extra thickness on the watch.
An automatic watch requires greater care and attention, due to the design of its mechanism, made up of several interlocking parts. Violent shocks and vibrations can disrupt the mechanism.

Unlike its mechanical competitor, a quartz watch requires a battery to operate. Activated by a thin quartz plate under the impulse of electricity supplied by the battery in question, this watch can be presented in analog form with hands, or in digital form.

More precise than mechanical watches, they require no maintenance other than changing the battery every two years or so. Because they use electronic components, their lifespan is shorter than that of their competitors. Closely linked to technology, quartz watches also have the advantage of a multitude of properties. As a result, they are very popular with sports enthusiasts, who are delighted by the ease of reading the digital display, stopwatches and other additional functions.

Depending on the type of movement, each type of mechanism has an operating tolerance:

Mechanical manual: 5 to 30 seconds offset per day
Mechanical automatic: plus or minus 1 to 2 minutes offset per week
Quartz: plus or minus 20 seconds offset per month

Beyond these amplitudes, the mechanism of your watch needs adjustment, or even an overhaul.

While this criterion is above all a matter of taste, certain characteristics distinguish round, rectangular and square dials.

It's important to choose a watch that matches the size of your wrist. If yours is slim, avoid choosing a dial that's too large and imposing, or you'll lose elegance. If your wrist is thick, a dial that's too small will lose its cachet.

It is imperative that your watch is more or less proportional to the size of your wrist.

For wrist sizes under 15.5 cm, it's best not to opt for a watch with a diameter greater than 40 mm.

For a wrist size above 18 cm, the ideal diameter would be between 42 and 45mm.

To find out your wrist size, see our size guide.